Whether it’s highlights, all-over or hand-painted color, we know that blonding is (and probably always will be) one the of the most popular in-salon services. But, getting that perfect shade can be tricky. Some of my most helpful tips are: choosing the right lightener/developer combo, treating the hair after lightening and selecting the appropriate toner.
Choosing the right lightener and developer:
Paul Mitchell® makes three great lightening options: DUAL-PURPOSE LIGHTENER, SynchroLift™ and Lighten Up®. The most common one that I choose is Synchrolift. I enjoy the creamy consistency and the fact that it resists swelling. And my guests love that it has zero fragrance, making it a great choice for foil work or painting. I typically choose DUAL-PUPROSE LIGHTENER when I am trying to break through a lot of previous color. Lighten Up is gentler and will only lift a maximum of five levels, so it’s great for lighter levels and finer textures that don’t need something incredibly powerful.
When choosing developer, remember that your volume controls how fast you lift, not how light you get. A 5 Volume will result in the same amount of lift as a 40 volume, but your 40 volume is like taking the freeway and the 5 Volume is like taking the back roads. If I am doing a full head of foils that I know will take a while, I will choose a lower volume developer, and if I am doing something that I know will only take me a few minutes, I will choose a higher one. I never choose higher than a 20 volume for on-scalp lightening because the heat from the scalp will cause a quicker lift and anything higher than that could cause scalp irritation. If I am doing hand-painting that will be exposed to the air, I will usually choose a higher volume developer because the lightener will stop working and will dry out more quickly because it is not inside of a foil or other material.
After lightening treatment:
After I have successfully lightened the hair to where I need it to be, I make sure to completely rinse the lightener out (I do not shampoo at this point) and then I apply a treatment to the hair. Applying a conditioning treatment will even out the porosity and make the hair stronger, allowing the toner to take more evenly and last longer. My two favorites are Awapuhi Wild Ginger® Keratin Intensive Treatment® and MarulaOil Rare Oil Intensive Masque. The Keratin Intensive Treatment rebuilds and repairs hair, improves texture and adds moisture and shine. The Rare Oil Intensive Masque hydrates, smoothes and softens dry, coarse hair and adds fullness to fine, limp hair. After the treatment has been on the hair for about 5-10 minutes (the perfect amount of time to mix up the toner), I rinse the treatment and apply my chosen toner.
Choosing the right toner:
When choosing which toner to use, I compare my options to women’s leg coverings; leggings and black or skin-colored pantyhose. If a woman wants to completely cover her legs she is going to choose something solid and opaque, like leggings, to do the job. And if our blonde has lightened unevenly or has a lot of strong dominant pigment left, you need something solid and opaque to cover or tone it. In this case, Paul Mitchell® THE COLOR or the color XG® would be your best option. If a woman wants to cover her legs but still leave some translucency, she would choose black or colored pantyhose, and if your blonde has lifted a bit more evenly and doesn’t have as much dominant pigment left, choosing a more translucent toner, like shines XG® or PM SHINES® would be a great option. If a woman has great legs and just needs a subtle, sheer covering, she would choose the skin-colored pantyhose. And if your blonde lifted beautifully and only needs minor correction, Flash Finish®, the sheerest of toners would be your best option.
There are a lot of variables to consider when lightening and toning, but just remember to choose the best lightener/developer combination, treatment option and toner for each guest that sits in your chair and you will have great success! For more business building tips, click here: https://www.paulmitchellpro.com/wordpress/category/business-building-2/%5D