As a colorist it’s important to know your limitations. Here’s one example where the perfect set of circumstances allowed me to make a black-to-blonde change in one 8-hour visit. I want to give you all the details about why I chose to do this in one sitting. So here is the backstory:
My guest came in with her hair all tied up in a bun. She let it down and it was past her behind and jet black, and I knew her goal was to get to a platinum blonde. I’ve learned that with these types of services, the best course of action is to under-promise and over-deliver. The reason I decided to continue the service is because my guest had no previous color on her hair (100% virgin), she was willing to cut quite a bit of length off (8 inches) and she had a strict monetary and time budget. She also had reasonable expectations of maintenance.
As far as charging, I’m a big believer in charging appropriately for color services. My rule of thumb is averaging about $100 per hour for color corrections. That ensures that my time and product is covered. It’s so important to charge in a way that you don’t have to compromise the steps that you need to have successful color service.
I began the transformation by taking roughly 7 inches of length off her hair. I needed to have a shorter canvas to work on in order to maintain my pace and let the hair process evenly. From there, I took these steps:
- Apply Paul Mitchell® SynchroLift™ and 30 volume with a Platinum Card technique, working with an assistant to maintain a quick pace. Don’t apply directly on the scalp. Allow to process until level 7 then apply SynchroLift and 20 volume at the scalp. Let all process to about a level 9.
- Rinse and cleanse with Paul Mitchell® Color Protect® Post Color Shampoo and follow with MarulaOil Rare Oil Intensive Treatment for 10-15 minutes.
- On dry hair, using the same sectioning as the first application, apply SynchroLift and 20 volume scalp to ends using 0.5” sections and using a foil overlay instead of packets. Again, use an assistant for speed.
- Let process until no yellow pigment is left.
- Repeat Step 2.
- Tone with equal parts Paul Mitchell Ultra Toner Platinum and Ash on damp hair until you achieve an icy cool blonde. Shampoo.
- Tone a second time with PM SHINES® equal parts 9a, 9v and clear.
- Shampoo with MarulaOil Rare Oil Replenishing Shampoo and deep condition with MarulaOil Rare Oil Intensive Masque.
*Maintain with 5 week retouches, toning and deep conditioning treatments.
Three steps to a successful color transformation:
- Be honest with you guest about limitations
- Set up proper expectations
- Don’t compromise on the steps it takes to achieve the desired end result and don’t compromise your price.
Utilizing each part of your Color BarSM allows you to achieve any color result we desire!